Soft Chucks

Wheel-Thrown Pottery II, Intermediate Skill Builders Bottles, Chucks, and Closed Forms with Cut lids
13 minutes
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Transcript

Now that we've gone over the heart check the other style of choke is the soft check and that we throw for each individual piece. So we have our clay here and align it up on our wheel head. Essentially we're going to be throwing a similar shape to the chuck before but we're going to leave a very thick about an inch or inch and a half inch inch and a half thick depend on the size of the piece. And that's going to give us the enough thickness that it's going to hold its shape without collapsing. You don't want to throw these too thin, but it is soft, so you can always just cut that clay away, wedge it up and reuses you're not gonna be losing any of this clay so don't worry about leaving them particularly thick. The first thing we want to do is take our bottle and measure where we would like our Chuck to be and again, the chuck should be spending roughly on this outside shoulder.

Save Right there looks like a be a good width of our Chuck. Now you can use a second pair of calipers to measure the height or you can always measure it with another tool, a pin tool and just eyeball it. It doesn't need to be exact, but I know I'm gonna want this to be, you know about two and a half inches tall or so. So I might make it about three inches just to be safe. Or like I mentioned, you can use another set of chucks to measure that as well. Somewhere right in there.

So, lineup our clay instead of a wheel head, slapping into position. Center up the clay. Now with this, you don't need clay at the base of the piece. So to open it up all the way down to the bat. Clean the base of the piece out farther than what you want the top of the chuck to be so that it has an inward slant and this will create a natural tension there to support that claim but flares out it is more likely to flare out and become knocked off center. See, one of the nice things about this technique is that it is gentler on the form so you're less likely to scar up the shoulder of the piece.

Another nice thing about this technique is that you don't have to bother with sintering up the chuck is naturally going to center up because you're centering the claim you're throwing up for the individual piece. All right, our measurement is looking pretty good. So our measurement on the inside. Double check our measurements. Major twice cut once a little bit taller with my Chuck The edge of the truck right here is slightly just flatten that out to follow the shape of our bottle. Okay, now that we've thrown our Chuck The next thing we need to do is take a strip of plastic about two inches wide is usually a pretty good thickness.

Now we can take this plastic and lay it along the lip of our piece here. So then we will clip the piece upside down on top of it. It won't stick to the wet clay. Lay that around our lip extra on the inside Something like so. Next, we can take our piece, typically flip it upside down, sending it into our Chuck. Once again, give it a slight spin showing that we're centered up.

We actually look pretty good. It's like tempers down what gets into that soft Chuck and often just that slight tap down will be a net is secured into position to create a little bit of a function in there. But to be safe you can also just take this outside edge of the clay and just work it up ever so slightly because you're still gonna have the plastic in between the two clays so that clay will not stick the will lock you into position. And now you're ready to continue trimming my bottle cap based on my piece. Now I'm going to remove all this excess clay and I know I have Quite a bit of clay to remove here because we let that extra clay at the bottom because we're going for that rounded form and we wanted that extra clay there just for that support so we can really flare out the belly of this piece.

I'm really going to be a little more aggressive about this and just start trimming away our clay. Then after we finish trimming it, we'll flip it right side up, and we can cut our lid into it. To see already how it's beginning to lighten up smaller foot. subjects were grading your work working in a series of pieces you have, you know, four or five bottles made. Once you pull this out you could recenter the walls up and use it for several pieces at once. Or like I mentioned before, you're not wasting any clay.

So if you only have that one piece to trim in, throw your Chuck forward. Then take the clay and simply wedge it back up and use it throw your next piece. You're not wasting anything. Okay, we've taken off quite a bit here. About ticking off as much as I can come in here now clean up our foot. A little more of a defined put tool in there.

Moving this excess clay within here. Now pronounced fit their spot for the glaze to break over rib scraped some clay away and bending it to the desired shaping with my thumb in the middle similar to the forming process follows trimming lines nice transition almost burnish surface their former foot on the inside Can we are almost there smooth it up with the sponge moving in those sharp edges cleaning up any hard trimming lines and this nice fluid piece here sign it okay we are almost there little will loosen it up within our piece. Okay so now you can see how we removed all that excess clay. We really fine tune the form and lifted it up it feels much lighter feels much more filled a lot more finished now at this point compared to before where it was so grounded and bottom heavy. Now we know cut this off once again.

Use it to wedge up and trim our next piece. No clays wasted. While we have this here, let's go ahead and cut our lid into our enclosed form. You can see right here that small pinhole I put into it yesterday so that the air can escape all this is sitting up to that leather hard state. So again, we're here that leather hearts state. I'm gonna go ahead and fill this hole in now because I know I'm going to come in and cut my lid away right now.

I could center this up if I wanted a round lid. But one of the nice things about this is this approach is that you don't necessarily need a round lid, you can maybe you could even put the lid on the side, it doesn't have to be on top. What I'm thinking is maybe a square lid, like create a little jumps position, a little contrast within the piece because everything is so round and tight and uniform. This square little we create a little point of interest. You can can be a good idea to come in here and trace it out with the pen tool roughly where you want or we can just go at it with our knife and begin cutting away as you cut away with this. You want to downward at about a 45 degree angle.

So then it's going to have that inward lip. The lid itself will catch on and not slip all the way through. So I'm going to be angling it in towards the vessel. And I'm okay if my lid is a little bit organic. If it's not super tight, I know I'm roughly going for this square shape with some loops. So I'm just gonna go ahead and go for it.

Okay, on my lines once I have this lid cut off, we'll come back in there and soften up all these hard edges. there because I cut this a little more organic and a little it's, it's a loose lid, shall we say, I know it's only going to fit in there on this piece in one position. What can be a nice trick because you know it's only going to fit on there in one position is to leave a little bit of a key of where it is gonna set. Either one little mark or a little glaze detail or a little ball within the piece then that is going to reference where this piece sets did a slip and score these look them in their case. Now we have our reference key there where this lid is going to fit. And that off, come back in here with our damp sponge and soften up some of these hard edges.

You're not gonna be able to totally remove those hard edges, because if you do, you're gonna not have that clean fit that we're looking for. But you do want to remove any of the really sharp ones because you can get some of those sharp edges that would like to chip and crack on you. soften it up just a little bit. To the side, these edges can reference our CI that we just put on there. We know exactly what this piece should be sitting on there. We've gone once this sets up a little bit more, I may clean it up a little bit more.

So you can see that is going to create a very different feel than if we were to throw that lid in that that round shape. Again, it's a perfect fit because we could have directly away from the piece. that's a that's a fun approach to these bottles and these clothes forms. It opens up some options that a traditionally thrown lid won't allow you

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